Whenever compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.
This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the family utterly shocked.
“I am completely astonished,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest shop securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.
This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.
In the end, it is focused on the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.
The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.
It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.
Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.
“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.
Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.
Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.
Fashion journalist and trend forecaster with over a decade of experience in the industry, specializing in sustainable and accessible style.