A brook so low you barely got your feet wet divided a settlement for more than four decades of time. Because of a chance of geography, the half a hundred residents of Mödlareuth, a hamlet surrounded by evergreen groves, fields and stunning vistas, found themselves at the center of the cold war. They had the bad luck to span Bavaria, in Western Germany, and the Thuringian region in the Eastern part, a border that was marked first by a barrier and then by a wall. US troops nicknamed it Mini Berlin.
Months after their own wall was breached, and even before their state had reunified in 1990, a assembly of local people set about memorialising their history. The work is about to reach completion: on 9 November, the thirty-sixth commemoration of the fall of the German barrier, the Deutsch-Deutsches Museum Mödlareuth will begin operations. It was publicly launched by the head of state, Frank-Walter Steinmeier, in early October, but the show was not entirely finished. Speaking to the villagers who lived through the past era, Steinmeier said: “You were bystanders of an inhuman split, which pulled families asunder and turned local residents into strangers.”
“You were witnesses of an inhuman split, which pulled families asunder and turned neighbors into foreigners.”
Even at its establishment in 1810, the village spanned the Kingdom of Bavaria and the Reuss Principality, a noble lineage most renowned for assigning all its men the title Heinrich and labeling them consecutively by birth. As Steinmeier related to the crowd, the quirk did not stand in the way of the locals drinking in the same inn, going to the identical place of worship and sending their kids to the identical learning center.
Then came the second world war. Immediately after they arrived, the Soviet forces erected wooden posts by the stream. For a twelve months they seized the complete community, establishing their headquarters in a building on the Bavarian side, embellishing it with a picture of Stalin and a communist symbol. The US forces convinced them to withdraw across the brook. For a time, villagers could still hop over, though as restrictions tightened they were forced to display ID, although each person was aware who they were, and to come back at after dark.
Subsequently, in 1952, came wire fencing and the legal sealing of the border. In 1966, as in Berlin previously in 1961, a concrete structure was erected, with mines, vehicle barriers and guard posts. The locals could still view each other by ascending hills, but on the east side signaling and calling out were forbidden. One woman was placed on a GDR intelligence watch list for replying “back at you” to a West German local who wished her “happy new year”.
It was related to me accounts like these tales by Robert Lebegern, the director of the museum, who has dedicated much of his professional career creating it. Locals were asked early on about how much wall they wanted to preserve. They selected a stretch on the western edge, adjacent to where a villager was able to get away in the dead of night with a ladder, after which the boundary was substantially reinforced.
A pair of watchtowers are maintained alongside a series of displays depicting the most significant events in the hamlet’s chronicle. As we walk, Robert Lebegern details the rules: nobody could come within 5km of the frontier. Agricultural workers required specific authorization to tend to their crops; the husband or wife could use the combine harvester but never the two, for fear that they attempted to make a run for it. Military personnel kept guard.
The boundary between Western Germany and the German Democratic Republic extended nearly 900 miles, from the Baltic coast in the north to this location in the south. Berlin is recalled and honored the most frequently, but more than two times more people (more than 300) were killed trying to pass over it in countryside regions than in the urban center. the director informs me that 95 percent of attempts to flee failed.
The majority of Mödlareuth’s locals were farmers or skilled workers, who adjusted to residing in the grey zone between two ideological spheres by staying low-profile and looking after their fields. They did not backed the socialist government nor resisted it, the director clarifies.
For visitors, however, the settlement became a sort of destination. Approximately 15,000 came to see every year, viewing tools in hand, to look – and then rapidly leave. In 1983, the American president, George Bush, was given a tour by the national security head.
25 years after merger, the television series, a TV series about a made-up community resembling Mödlareuth, led to renewed attention.
The launch of the modern exhibition center – with a coffee shop, shop, cinema room and large parking lot – is expected to
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